white_25x10.gif (830 bytes) white_25x10.gif (830 bytes)
white_25x10.gif (830 bytes)
Aim for the sky and try not to miss!
white_25x10.gif (830 bytes)
logo.gif (12079 bytes)

Space Station Deuce
By: Matthew McFarland

I decided to build Space station Deuce for the Deuce bash contest because I thought there was a huge shortage in the area of aerobrake recovery cluster powered rockets and this is my favorite type of model(aerobrake).  I have had the Idea for some time, but never got around to doing it until spurred on by the contest.  The Space Station Deuce uses only the parts from the kit and not all of them at that. You

will end up with a parachute and launch lug for other projects. Nothing else is needed except glue and tools.   The following are the instructions so you can also enjoy the Space Station Deuce.
liftoff.jpg (18159 bytes)

1.      Get two weeks off work.  (The model does not take this much time and in fact I built six rockets during my time off.)

2.      Mark the body tube and cut out the motor mount sections as outlined in the deuce instructions.  Make sure you mark the four fin lines all the way from end to end on the tube. 

3.      Cut the motor mount side of the tube to 70mm.  Build the Deuce Motor Mount as per instructions and install the in this 70mm section.

4.      Cut the remaining tube into 3 ea. 126mm sections.  Two will be the solar panel mounts and one will be cut in half to mount the tubes to the  booster.

5.      Cut one of the 126mm sections into two ea. 63mm sections and number the fin template lines sequentially from 1-4 in any direction you find to be fun.

6.      Cope the 63mm sections 12mm deep to fit BT-60 tubing on one end each.  This was easily done by wrapping 100 grit sandpaper around one 126mm

1st-landing-a-power.jpg (79179 bytes)
lift-off2.jpg (61759 bytes) piece and sanding for a nice fit.  I mark a line around one end at 12mm so I know how deep to go and then make initial cutting with scissors and fit up with the sandpaper.  To make the coping square I used the lines marked from the fin template and centered the coped section on two opposite lines(1,3).

parts.jpg (17861 bytes)
Layout of major components

7.      At this point you should have coped the two 63mm pieces on one side only.  Now cope each piece making sure the second notch is oriented the other way(square it on the other set of fin lines2,4). It is vital that you make sure the orientation is correct or your booster will not mount correctly and you will need more tubing!!!

B-recovery.jpg (81523 bytes)
tip-over-power.jpg (45866 bytes)

8.      Center the 63mm piece on the 126mm piece and glue together to make a T.  Repeat with the other 63mm and 126mm part.

9.      Glue the T shaped pods on the booster section.

solar-panel-mount-cut.jpg (59098 bytes)
Solar Panel mount cut

10.  Make a 45 degree angle jig out of paper and put it on the end of one side of the T section.  You are only cutting off a little part of the tube here so take note.  Place the jig with the thin part on the top of the rocket and the fat part on the bottom  sticking out from the tube.  With the template square you need to recess the top only 13mm from the tube end to the template end and mark the tube.  Keep the little part you cut off, you need it!  Do this on

c-recovery.jpg (90118 bytes)

each side.  It is easier to get the template on if you install the nosecone in the tube before sliding it on.

ready321.jpg (65814 bytes)

11.  Now we will make the Solar panels.  Take the fin stock and cut a 30mm strip the long way from each one.

12.  Measure the long way on the big piece of fin stock 30mm and draw a line.  This is where you glue the 30mm piece you cut. Do this to both panels.

solar-panel-mount.jpg (26865 bytes)
Close up of the solar panel mount cut


13.  Now lay one panel face down(with the glued on strip up.)  Center the 45 degree cut section of the solar panel support tubes on the solar panels. With the cut strip abutting the edge of the original 90 degree cut.   Glue in place with CA.

14.  Take the little piece left over from cutting the 45 degree support and using CA glue it to the support tube and the panel so that it fills the hole.

15.  Repeat steps 13 and 14 for the other side.

16.  Now all we have left is the nose cone and the launch lug.  Glue the nose cone on.  I originally mounted the launch lug on a fillet made of Locktite putty epoxy that I was experimenting with on this model.  I had bad results with the putty as it set up too quickly.  The only real bad thing was that the launch lug was not centered between the engines and on a C powered flight the model tipped over and broke the launch lug off.  I quickly re glued it and flew it on A’s and B’s, but the C broke it again.  I then drilled a hole in one of the 63mm pieces right next to the support tube and then had successful C powered flights.

I have had many successful flights and have determined the following:

Expect about:
35-40 feet with A motors.
60-80 feet with B motors.
80-100 feet with C motors.

solar-panel.jpg (17838 bytes)
Solar Panel detail

All in all I would say it was a fun project with some good flights and a few lessons learned.  I ended up cracking both solar panels, putting a major dent in the nose cone and blowing the motor mount out in the last flight.  The model now hangs in the rocket room with Bob the alien (named by my two year old) watching over my fleet.  I will build another one soon.

white_25x10.gif (830 bytes)


rockets! ROCKETS! lookit all the rockets!
"FlisKits make the best kits!"

| Home | Products | Services | Ordering | About |
| Safety Code | Site Help | Archive | Photo Album | Feedback |
| EDUCATORS | NAR | Tripoli | ROL|
| TRF | EMRR |
| Warranty | Liability | Site Use |

FlisKits, Inc., Model Rocket Kits & Supplies
6 Jennifer Drive, Merrimack, NH 03054  -  (603) 494-1145
Copyright, 2006, All rights reserved - Web site developed by Toad's Tavern Graphics