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This image shows the initial
damage caused by careless storage on my way to the launch field. In the lower right
you can see the parts that will be used to render a fix: BT-20-0275, CPL-20-0125 stage
coupler, Two of the lower centering rings that came with the kit (These are not yet
available separately) |
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As much as it hurts, your first
step is to use a razor knife (or saw) and carefully and cleanly cut the tubes as close to
the upper BT-20 as you can. Be careful not to cause any additional damage to the
thin ducting tubes. |
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Measure and make a mark 1.75"
down the BT-20, as shown here. |
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Wrap a narrow length of card stock
(index cards are perfect for this) around the BT-20, at the mark. Use this edge as a
guide to draw a line all the way around the tube, at the mark |
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This image shows the line drawn in
the previous step. |
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Using a SHARP razor knife,
carefully cut the BT-20 tube as shown here. |
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This is the image looking down the
BT-20 tube that we just cut. You will notice the ragged edge of the tube where we
cut it. You must carefully sand this edge smooth using 400-600 grit sand paper.
You also want to lightly sand the INSIDE of the tube to remove
ejection debris so that we can get a good glue joint. |
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This image is provided to show you
the section of the tube we just cut off. In a pinch, these centering rings MAY
be salvageable, though it would be difficult. |
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In this picture you can see how we
have sanded the tube edge smooth and have also cleaned all of the residue out of the
inside of the tube, assuring good glue joints. |
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Apply a bead of glue near the
inside edge of the BT-20 tube and slide the CPL-20 stage coupler as far as it will go.
Your model should now look like this. |
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Measure and make 2 marks on the
small tubes from the top section of the Borealis. One mark is 1/8" and
the other is 1" from the ends of the tubes, as shown. |
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Carefully sand off the paint from
these ends of the tubes, doing your best not to go past the 1" mark you made in the
previous step. |
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Slide one of the replacement
centering rings up to the 1" mark and glue in place. NOTE: If
you don't have access to replacement rings, you can wrap this area with 1" wide
masking tape to build up the tubes until they fit inside the BT-20. BE SURE
to fill all voids with epoxy to strengthen the assembly. |
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Repeat with the second replacement
centering ring. |
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Measure the replacement BT-20 body
tube and make a mark 1.75" from one end. |
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As before, wrap the tube with a
narrow strip of card stock so that you can draw a cut line, then cut the tube, discarding
the shorter section, as it is not needed. |
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This photo shows the removal of
the launch lug from the section of tube you removed earlier. The easiest way to do
this is to deeply score the glue filet on either side of the standoff and then SHARPLY
snap the lug and standoff from the tube. |
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Apply a bead of glue along the
inside edge of the freshly cut BT-20 tube and slide this over the exposed section of stage
coupler on the lower section. If you cut and sanded the tubes well, there should be
very little seam between the tubes. |
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As in the instructions for the
model, you can now apply a bead of glue inside the tube and slide the upper assembly into
the tube. NOTE: You will be unable to use the alignment jig and you
will have to align this assembly by eye. |
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Here I have glued the launch lug
back into place and the repaired area is now ready for paint. The model is 1"
shorter than it was before, but will fly fine. |
| If you should damage
your Borealis, we hope that this short photo essay helps you get her back into the air as
soon as possible! |
