Figure 2
Here, you can see the scored body tube has been creased (formed) on the left with the Glue Tab visible. On the right, the completed body tube. NOTE: An architect scale makes a perfect tool when forming the body tube.
Figure 3
In the upper left you can see the Engine Tube pattern, print side up. Turning this over (lower right), you score the line defining the Second Glue Area. Score this the full length of the engine tube pattern.
Figure 4
Using your fingers and the straight edge of a table, you can begin curling the engine tube as shown on the left. The curled tube can be seen on the right.
Figure 5
This 3 part photo shows the Engine Tube pattern flattened back out and tape applied to each end (sticky side down at the top and sticky side up at the bottom of the image). The middle image shows glue applied to the First Glue Area and the image in the lower right shows this spread into a thin film.
Figure 6
Using a spent motor casing, you can see me begining to roll the pattern onto the casing in the upper left. The center image shows one full revolution when the first piece of tape attaches itself to the inside of the tube. The image in the lower right shows the completed tube with the 2nd piece of tape holding it to dry.
Figure 7
This image shows (upper right) the Nose Cone, Shoulder and Launch Lug, cut, scored and creased. The image in the lower right shows these items formed and glued.
Figure 8
Score each fin, print side up, as shown.
Figure 9
The image in the upper right shows the fin with a film of glue (note curling) and the Fin Insert in place, waiting to be trapped between the two halfs of the fin. The image in the lower left shows the fins after being dried and flattened between books. Note how flat the fin is that I am holding.
Figure 10
Note the glue on the top edge of the Shoulder in the left most image. the center image shows the completed assembly and the image on the right shows the inside. Apply glue with a toothpick or Q-Tip to this inside edge of the shoulder.
Figure 11
This shows the rather unique method of making your Engine Block. From left to right, top to bottom: Removing the tape (inside and out), applying glue to the Second Glue Area, pushing the top 1/4" of the tube INto the tube, more pushing with fingers, final tube with captive Engine Block.
Figure 12
It is hard to see in this image, but you can see the bead of glue on the Engine Tube aligned with the CORNER of the body tube. This is so that you can insert the tube without the glue getting pushed off by the body. Once in place (right image), you turn the engine tube to bring the beads of glue into contact with the walls of the body tube.
Figure 13
The first fin is applied
Figure 14
Top left shows the 2nd fin attached then (top right) the 3rd fin. The image on the bottom shows how you can use the edge of a flat surface to help assure a flat glue joint for all 3 fins.
Figure 15
Top Left and right shows the Launch Lug glued into place. Bottom left shows the gussetts. The sharp point of a razor knife makes it easy to pick up and place the gussetts into the tube. Apply a bead of glue all around the gussett before inserting. Bottom right shows all 3 gussetts in place.
Figure 16
The forming of the Shock Cord Mount. Apply glue to the inside surface (after folding), lay shock cord onto lower 2/3rd's of mount, fold over first flap, fold over 2nd flap and you're done.
Figure 17
Crease the shock cord mount as shown in the insert image. Glue into a corner of the body tube at least 1" inside the tube.
Figure 18
Place a liberal drop of glue into the tip of the nose cone. Tie a knot in the free end of the shock cord, cover this in glue and seat into the point of the nose cone till dry.